A DIY guide on how to build a closet system with drawers and shelves to expertly store all your clothing and accessories. 

It’s 6 am and the morning greets you with a sudden buzzing of your alarm clock. 

You scramble out of your bed to silence it, trudge over to your closet and blindly reach in to grab the essentials for the day.  

Yet another challenge awaits you.

The outfit that you were planning to wear is camouflaged in the chaotic, overstuffed space. 

Your jeans are scattered and hiding in dark, inaccessible places on the closet’s top shelf. 

And the dim light of your room reveals the only article of clothing you could reach: your favorite t-shirt, that was hung up on the rack, now boasts awkward hanger marks on each shoulder. 

What a lovely way to start the morning!

Are you tired of your closet not being organized the way you would like? Do you constantly struggle to find what you need?

If your closet only has one rod and a top shelf, you’re not maximizing its potential. 

Did you know that you can design and build a DIY closet organizer that has multiple rods, shelves, drawers and even a shoe shelf, all under your budget? 

And you don’t need a walk-in closet to hold these innovative solutions. Your own closet, a small, standard size, can hold more items than you ever imagined. 

All you need is a built-in closet organizer or system. 

Follow my step-by-step tutorial below on how to design and build a DIY closet system with drawers.

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STEP 1: Create your closet systems plans

To build your own closet system, you first need to create the plans. I have a detailed tutorial on how to create a DIY closet organizer plan. Although my plans might work for your closet as is, every closet is slightly different. Use it as a starting point and customize it to your own measurements.

You can also use my “Closet Organizer Plan Printable”. Subscribe to my newsletter to receive the FREE PDF – just fill out the form below if you’re interested. If you have questions, please visit the Q&A page on free printables/plans. 

For more detailed instructions or assistance, purchase my “Closet Organizer Workbook with Drawers”. You can quickly and easily create the entire closet system plan by adding the measurements from your closet to my plans and cutting diagrams.

To create your closet plans, measure the size of your closet, and decide on either the length of the rods or the width of the closet drawer system. Calculate the size of the other rods or drawer system based on the amount of space left from the width of the closet. My free printable will have a blank sketch of the closet. 

STEP 2: Create your cutting list and diagram

After you have designed your plans, determine where to cut the trim boards and plywood pieces by preparing a cutting diagram.

TIP: Cut the sheets of plywood into strips and group pieces of the same width. 

Start your cutting diagram by placing the largest pieces on the layout first, working your way down until you have included all the pieces on the diagram. 

SIDE NOTE: My article about creating a DIY closet organizer plan details this step but again my workbook will be the most helpful. 

STEP 3: Cutting the wood

In the previous step, you created cutting diagrams for both the plywood and trim boards. 

SIDE NOTE: At this point, cut only the plywood pieces. You will cut the trim boards when you are ready to install them onto the system – this will give you the exact size of trim needed. 

Start by cutting the plywood sheets into strips according to the cutting diagram. You can use a table saw, or if you prefer, a circular saw with a Rip-Cut attached. I explain how to use a Kreg Rip-Cut and what it is in another post. 

SIDE NOTE: The sides of the system need to be cut to an “L”. To do this, clamp the rectangle plywood pieces together and mark the wood according to the diagram. Then, use a jigsaw to cut the wood.

TIP: For top shelves above the closet system (spanning the length of the closet), cut these about 1/4″ less than the length. Also, test the fit in the space because sometimes, walls are not perfectly square. 

Once all the plywood is cut, move to the next step.

STEP 4: Create pocket holes in the wood

After the plywood is cut, add pocket holes to the organizer sides, middle shelf, bottom shelf, shoe shelf, brace 1 (one for each side), brace 2, and the trim piece. In the diagram that is provided in the printable, the “*” is where a pocket hole will be placed. There are a total of 30 with the shoe shelf.

SIDE NOTE: For the sides, place the pocket holes on the inside of both pieces.

STEP 5: Sand and paint the wood

Now the wood needs to be sanded. I recommend using an orbital sander with #220 grit sandpaper on all the pieces (plywood and trim boards). 

Once you’re done sanding, wipe the wood with a dry cloth to remove dust and prep for painting.

Side Note: I did this project during the winter season so I could not use my paint sprayer (which requires proper ventilation). Luckily, I found that my roller worked just fine, although it took a little longer. If you are wondering what paint sprayer I use, you can find my post all about my favorite paint sprayer. 

You should paint the wood now because it will save time and it’s more difficult to paint all the corners after the system is installed. 

TIP: You can touch up some areas after the closet system is installed. 

I would recommend applying two coats of primer (I used Kilz Premium) and two coats of white paint (I used Behr Premium Plus Ultra in Stain). Also, lightly sand between coats to ensure a smooth surface.

You will need to paint the back and front of some pieces. 

TIP: Paint the baseboard & quarter round now too!

While the paint is drying, it would be a great time to demolish the current closet. 

STEP 6: Prepping the closet

Before a new closet system can be installed, you need to remove the shelving, rods and outdated flooring in the old closet. For this task, use a crowbar, hammer and razor blade.

We ripped out the carpet in our closet to reveal beautiful hardwood floors. If you have carpet flooring, you may either remove it from where the drawer system will sit or install the system on top.

Once the closet is empty, sand the walls and apply primer and paint.

STEP 7: Installing the closet system into the closet

This step will require some patience and planning but I have split it into separate sections to guide you: 

PREPPING THE SIDE PIECES:

You need to mark the inside of the side pieces where the drawer supports will be installed. Place one side piece on the floor with the inside facing up (remember the pocket holes are on the inside). 

Now, mark the length of the board, starting at the bottom of the piece. It will help later if you write down the numbers as you go. 

TIP: Mark each side of the piece (left and right) and draw a straight line to connect the points.

Here are the distances to measure and mark:

1. Bottom – 3-3/8 “(this is where your front trim piece will sit, it will be 1/8″ higher than the baseboard)
2. 1-1/8″ from the last line or 4-1/2″ from the bottom (this is where to bottom of the drawer support will sit)
3. 9″ from last line (10″ drawer) or 13-1/2″ from the bottom
4. 1-1/8″ from the last line or 14-5/8″ from the bottom
5. 8″ from last line (9″ drawer) or 22-5/8″ from the bottom
6. 1-1/8″ from the last line or 23-3/4″ from the bottom
7. 8″ from last line (9″ drawer) or 31-3/4″ from the bottom
8. 1-1/8″ from the last line or 32-7/8″ from the bottom
9. 7″ from last line (8″ drawer) or 39-7/8″ from the bottom
10. 1-1/8″ from the last line or 41″ from the bottom
11. 6″ from last line (7″ drawer) or 47″ from the bottom
12. 1-1/8″ from the last line or 48-1/8″ from the bottom
13. NO line needed (6″ drawer) 

After marking one side piece, prepare the other side piece in the same manner. Remember to write on the inside of each piece.

BUILDING THE DRAWER SYSTEM

Before you begin, align the side pieces against the left and right walls of the closet. 

Make sure the bottom of each piece is flush with the floor and trace where the top of the side piece hits the wall (this is where the 6″ rod supports will sit). Do this for both the left and right walls.

TIP: If there are baseboards, make sure the trace marks are the same length as the side pieces. 

Now, start assembling the system with the side pieces and the bottom shelf (shelf before the drawers). With the pockets of the shelf facing the floor, clamp the front using a right angle clamp on the sides (or whatever clamp you have that will hold the pieces into place). 

The shelf should be flush with the front edges but also the “L” cutout. 

TIP: Use a square to make sure the sides are in line with the shelf.

Place a level on top of the shelf and check to make sure the shelf is level from the front and back, adjusting if needed. Using the 1″ screws, attach the back pockets of the shelf to the sides (one at a time, checking the level as you go). Continue until all the pockets have a screw in place; then, remove the clamps.

Now, pick up the two braces and trim piece (all with pocket holes). Place the trim piece at the bottom front of the system (pocket can face either way). Make sure the edges are flush; then, attach to the side pieces using the 1″ screws.

Next, for one of the braces, place it inside the 10″ drawer mark of the system but the top of the brace will be level with the 9″ line. Make sure the board is level before attaching with 1″ screws to the side pieces. 

For the other brace, place it inside the 8″ drawer mark of the system. The top will be level with the 7″ line. Attach this brace just like the others.

INSTALL DRAWER SUPPORTS

You need to install extra pieces of plywood so you can attach the drawer sliders into the system. Since you marked everything earlier, doing this will be easy. 

Apply wood glue to one side of the 12 drawer supports (2″ x width of side pieces“) in a zigzag pattern (about 1/2 inch away from edges). 

Place the support inside the 6″ drawer just above the 1-1/8″ line (bottom of the support will sit on this line).

When the front edge is flush with the edge of the side piece, clamp the front into place. Take a level and place it on the support, adjusting the angle of the back of the support. 

Once the support is level, attach the support to the side piece using 1-1/4″ finishing nails. Place the nails about 1/4″ away from edge (to provide room for the drawer slider) and place at least five nails on the support board.

Continue this process for the remaining eleven braces (six on each side), securing them to the sides to the system. It should look something like this when you are finished:

INSTALLING SHELF & ROD SUPPORTS

Take one of the 6″ rod supports and place Liquid Nails adhesive in a zigzag pattern on the back (this adhesive is optional but it worked well for the brick against my wall). 

Then, place the support below the line you marked on the wall (top of the support will be flush with the line). Once the board is level, nail the board into place with the 2.5″ finishing nails. 

Repeat this for the other 6″ rod support.

Side Note: It’s important that both supports are level. With the drawer system inside the closet, I placed the shelf on top of the first support and drawer system. Then, I put the level on the shelf and checked to make sure the other line on the wall was marked at the correct spot.

For the top shelf supports (the 2″ x12″), mark a line 8″ from the 6″ rod supports that were just installed. 

Take one of the 2″ supports, add Liquid Nails adhesive and place the support above the line you just marked (bottom of support will be flush with line). Once the board is level, nail to the wall with 2.5″ finishing nails.

To avoid the dilemma of shelves not fitting, stack the 12″ shelf on top of the other shelf (16″) and place the 16″ shelf into place (12″ shelf will still be on top). 

Having the last 2″ x 12″ support ready to go (Liquid Nails added, nail gun and level close by), move the 12″ shelf into place (onto the 12″ support).

Push the other edge of the shelf toward the ceiling (at least above the marked line), place the 2″ support against the marked line and check the level of the support. Once it’s level, attach the 2″ support into place with 2.5″ finishing nails. 

At this point, things will be a little tight but you want to avoid cutting the shelf more than needed. 

SIDE NOTE: I had to cut the 16″ board about 5/8″ to get it to fit because I added the shelf after this last support.

To install the top shelf completely (12″ shelf), add wood glue to the top of the supports (where the shelf hits the support). Clamp the shelf to the support and let it dry for a couple of hours. If you can, place some nails from the shelf to the support. 

Don’t install the other shelf into place yet – first, you need to set up the drawer system. 

Now, install the 4″ rod support, measure 39″ from the floor, and mark a line. Add Liquid Nails to the support and place the top of the support against the line with the edge flush against the wall. Once the board is level, nail into place with the 2.5″ finishing nails.

For the last support, the shoe shelf, measure the other wall 7.25″ from the floor and mark a line. Add Liquid Nails to the support and place the top of support on that line (edge will be flush with wall). Once the support is level, nail into place with 2.5″ finishing nails.

PLACING THE DRAWER SYSTEM

Now it’s time to assemble the drawer system. To do this, place the shoe shelf on its support and move the drawer system over to the shelf.

SIDE NOTE: You should not attach the shoe shelf to the system until after the baseboard is installed.

Use the level to make sure the shelf is flush with the wall and the system. Also, place the middle shelf inside the drawer system to make sure the spacing is correct (pockets will face down but do not install yet).

Check the level (vertically) to make sure the drawer system is flush with the back wall. The top of the system should also align with the top shelf (spans the length of the closet). 

Use a right angle clamp to hold one side piece of the system to the top shelf (spans the length of the closet). Check the level again.

TIP: You can also mark the top shelf to give you a line for where the system should be placed, the distance from the wall to side or the width of the shoe shelf.

Check the other side piece to make sure it is level (and spacing is right between the sides, middle shelf). If it is, attached the top of the side piece to the top shelf using 1″ screws. Then, attach the other side piece to the top shelf also.

TIP: I would recommend rechecking the level and spacing before continuing on. 

Now, attach the middle shelf to the drawer system. I placed my system 10.5″ from the bottom shelf. Make sure the middle shelf is level and flush with the system before attaching with 1″ screws.

ADDING TRIM

Most of the trim pieces will need to be cut to the correct size but let’s start with the ones that do not. Take the trim pieces (the size of the top shelf) and add wood glue to the front of the top shelf. Place the trim against the shelf, the top will be flush. Then starting on one end, nail the trim piece into place with 1.25” finishing nails (making sure the top is flush with the shelf). Move about 6-8” and place another nail, adjust trim piece to make it flush. Continue doing this down the board. Then do this for the top top shelf.

Before continuing with the trim pieces, place some nails on the top shelf to connect it to the rod support.

Next take the 54.25” trim (there will be 2); these will be placed on the very front of the drawer system. Apply them just like the top shelf trim (glue & nails) but start by making the top flush with the bottom shelf. Do this for both pieces.

SIDE NOTE: You should wait to attach the middle shelf; otherwise, you will not have enough space to fasten the side pieces to the top shelf. 

ADDING TRIM BOARDS

Now you’re finally ready to cut the trim pieces to fit the closet. 

Take two of the trim boards and cut according to your cutting diagram for the two top shelves (span the length of the closet). 

TIP: I ALWAYS recommend testing the fit of each trim piece before installing it into place. 

Take the trim pieces (the size of the top shelves), test the fit (adjust if needed) and add wood glue (optional) to the front of the top shelf. Place the trim piece against the shelf so that the 2″ side is facing out and check that the top of the trim is flush with the shelf. 

Next, starting from one end, carefully nail the trim piece into place with 1.25″ finishing nails (making sure the top is flush with the shelf). Space the nails about 8″ to 10″ apart and adjust the trim piece to make it flush, if needed. Continue doing this along the board. 

Then, repeat these steps for the other top shelf.

You should also place some nails on the top shelf above the closet drawer system to connect it to the rod support.

Now, you will cut the trim pieces for the longer front sides of the closet system (there will be two at about 54.25″). These will be placed on the very front of the drawer system. Measure the front of the closet system and cut two trim pieces to fit the space. 

Before applying the trim, test the fit so that the top of the trim is flush with the bottom shelf of the organizer. Adjust the trim if needed then carefully nail the trim pieces into place with 1.25” nails. Again space the nails 8” to 10” apart and adjust the trim to make it flush with the organizer. 

Now, measure the distance on both sides of the system between the top shelf (spans the length of the closet) and the bottom shelf. Cut the trim pieces (about 21.5″) to those measurements; then, check the fit and adjust if needed. Once the trim pieces fit into place, secure them with glue and nails like the previous trim pieces.

After installing the trim pieces, measure the distance from where the middle shelf trim piece will be placed and the top of the drawer system. 

Cut the trim pieces (about 15″) to each of those measurements; then, check their fit in each location. 

Once the middle and top trim pieces fit, attach them just like the other trim pieces (glue and nails).

For the bottom of the closet system trim piece, place it at the line you marked on the side pieces, 3-3/8″ from the floor. 

Measure the distance between the two side trim pieces at this mark, cut the trim (about 15″), and check the fit. 

Once the trim piece fits, apply glue to the 3″ brace (already secured) and attach the trim piece onto the 3″ brace.The top should be flush with the line on the side pieces. Don’t forget to check your level before nailing the trim into place.

SIDE NOTE: I cut my trim piece too small. To fix this, I cut a small piece of trim to place inside the gap and glued it into place. After the closet is finished, you can’t even tell that I measured wrong!

You will install the last trim piece (the shoe shelf trim, about 18.5″) later but check to make sure it will fit in the space.

ADD THE BASEBOARD

Before you add the shoe shelf, first install the baseboards in the closet. 

I would recommend using quarter round trim in that area to give you more space under the shoe shelf. To cut the pieces, measure the distances of the wall and cut the trim at 45-degrees (do not move the actual blade). 

For the side of the drawer system, measure about 2″ less on that side so that the standard baseboard can wrap around a couple of inches. Then, use 2.5″ nails to attach the trim to the wall and 1.25″ to connect the trim to the drawer system.

For the baseboard trim, move the saw to cut at 0-degrees but adjust the blade to cut at 45-degrees. I found it easier to have two scrap boards (or extra piece of the baseboard) cut at the angle in two different ways. These boards will help you calibrate to the correct angle, like this example below:

Measure and cut all the baseboards to fit around the drawer system and use the scrap boards to give you the correct cut. Adjust if needed. 

Install the baseboards like the quarter round: 2.5″ nails on the wall and 1.25″ nails on the drawer system.

A LITTLE MORE PREP

At this point, almost all your boards are installed; the only item remaining is the shoe shelf. 

Before that can be installed, you need to caulk everywhere, fill in all nail holes and repaint the area below where the shoe shelf will be.

TIP: Take your time – these extra steps will give you a seamless finish!

Start with a pin punch (this is to make sure your nails are slightly indented into the wood) and hammer. Look at all your nail holes and make sure each nail is indented into the board. If not, adjust with this tool and hammer. 

Next, take the pocket plugs (or some type of wood filler) and glue the plugs in place to cover the pocket holes.

Then, fill in each nail hole with spackling paste. Let this dry completely before sanding smooth (at least an hour). Once it’s dry, sand the spots with #220 grit sandpaper and vacuum all the dust.

SIDE NOTE: An easy way to remove dust without spreading it everywhere is to use a Swiffer duster!

Now, apply caulk (sealant) to all the seams and gaps. If you want to improve your caulking skills, be sure to visit the my tutorial on applying caulk for the tip. 

Once the caulk has dried, it is time to paint the area below the shoe shelf.
Using a paintbrush, paint the spackle spots (nail holes) and where the caulk was applied.

SIDE NOTE: You can paint other areas while you’re waiting but be sure to read my tip about priming the nail holes first, below!

INSTALLING THE SHOE SHELF

This shelf will be installed in the same manner as the other shelves. Set the shelf into place, making sure the pockets are angled down and facing the side of the drawer system. 

Level the shelf and use a clamp to hold it into place. Attach the shelf to the drawer system using the 1″ Kreg Jig screws. 

Nail the other side (wall side) to the support, using 1.25″ finishing nails.

Take your trim piece and install it to the front of the shelf, just like the other trim pieces (glue and nails).

SIDE NOTE: I had to chisel out the trim around the door opening to make room for this trim piece. I also had to cut it into two parts to make it fit.

Prep the shoe shelf by adjusting the nail holes (make sure they are indented); then, fill them with spackling paste. Once it has dried, sand smooth and remove the dust with a cloth. 

Finally, caulk all the seams and let that dry also.

STEP 7: Finishing touches

Once the caulk has dried, take your primer and paint over all the places you have put the spackling paste. 

In my experience, it helped to prime over all the spackling. Think of it as drywall mud – you need to have a layer of primer over it before you can paint.

After the primer dries, paint over the primer and anywhere you have applied caulk. Then, let the paint dry (you should only need one coat of each but apply more if you need to). 

STEP 8: Adding the rods

Now for the simplest step: adding the new rods. 

Measure the distance from the two top rod supports to the drawer system and the bottom rod support to the drawer system (a total of three measurements). 

Depending on the type of rod holders you use, you might need to subtract 1/8″ – 1/4″ (ours was only 1/8″ because the dowel sat on the rod holder on one side but was flush with the system on the other side).

Cut your dowels to the measurements and check the fit inside the closet (use the rod holders). If the rod does not fit properly, cut a little more until it is snug. 

Lightly sand the dowel with #220 grit sandpaper and clean with a damp cloth.

At this point, you can apply a stain (we used Special Walnut). 

When the stain has dried, apply a coat of polyurethane to the rods (we applied two coats). Once the polyurethane has dried, lightly sanded the dowel (I used #600 grit sandpaper, but #220 grit will work as well).

To install the rod holder, mark the wood rod supports 11″ from the back wall (this was enough room for my hangers) and center on the wood supports. Center the rod holder at this mark and trace the screw holes.

Next, predrill a 1/8″ hole about 1/2″ into the support on the marked screw holes. Then, use the screws provided to install the holder onto that wood support.

For the other side, place the other rod holder in place but before tracing, put the rod into the holders and check to make sure the rod is level. Adjust if needed.

Once it all looks level, trace the screws holes and attach this rod holder just like the other side. Then, set the rod into place. 

Continue this same process for the other two rods.

And that’s the entire process of building a closet system! 

Now you can build the drawers to go inside the closet and create the simple shaker style drawer fronts. Be sure to check out those posts foron the how-to tutorial. 

Here’s the before:

And the after:

Also, if you are wondering, here is the total cost breakdown of this closet system build. 

And that’s how you can build a closet organizer with drawers and shoe shelf to help organize your closet. 

Now you’ll look forward to your mornings when you reach in to grab a perfectly folded top from the shelf, grab a pair of jeans from the drawer and get dressed before you’ve even fully awake!

Do you want a different closet organizer? Here is a list of all the closet organizers we have built. 

• Build a floating closet organizer
• Update an entryway closet by adding shoe shelves