We are full force remodel over here and today I want to talk about insulating and framing a basement. As you probably know, basements are a little different when it comes to insulating so let’s talk about it.
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INSULATING AND FRAMING A BASEMENT
Let’s talk about the supplies and tools we used.
THINGS TO NOTE:
- Check your local code to see if you need to add a plastic vapor barrier and what R-value you need in your basement.
- We decided to use screws and there are Pros: easy to remove & stronger and Cons: takes a little bit more time & screws cost more money. We did not have a framing gun so it saved us money to use the tool we already had on hand!
- If you are using screws, you will need screws that can be placed in treated boards
- ALSO if you are using screws make sure you purchase the star head screws, they are easier to use!
Here is what we were working with: bedroom number one
You can see into all the other rooms plus the chain in the room is from our son’s punching bag, this was a kid playroom if you notice there is a climbing wall too.
Bedroom number 2
Now let me share the steps we used to get our basement ready for drywall. Here are our framing supplies!!!
STEP 1: INSTALLING FOAM BOARD
Before installing make sure your walls are completely ready. If there are any cracks or holes be sure to fill them and also seal the wall with a waterproofer. You can see the tutorial on waterproofing a basement wall, here.
Now that your wall is ready it’s time to install the foam board. SIDE NOTE about this insulation: This insulation maintains its R-value in extreme temperatures (cold basement) plus it is moisture resistant and it is very easy to cut (all you need is a ruler and razor blade).
To install the board, cut it to the size of the wall and make sure it fits into place. To cut the foam board, use a razor blade (utility knife) to score the foam then bend the back. Then foam will snap right along the line.
After the insulation fits into the space, add the adhesive (liquid nails) to the back of the board. I am not sure the best method of doing this but we made sure the adhesive was about 1″ away from all edges. and we zigzagged throughout the whole board. TIP: Try to work quickly because the adhesive starts drying fast.
Then press the foam board into place. Once it is stuck to the wall start on the next board.
After installing the next board you need to tape the sides of the boards together. You are trying to make sure no air seeps between the insulation and the wall.
TIP: Don’t go crazy and insulate the whole room. Do one wall at a time then add the framing before moving on. The framing will help the foam adhere to the wall better.
STEP 2: ADDING THE FRAMING
Now there are different ways to build walls and the way we decided to build our walls was different than the way we built our shed walls. The way it was different was we are building the wall in place and we are using a Kreg Jig K5. Yes, it took a little longer and cost more for the screws but we have tried nailing at an angle with a framing gun and we decided we are better at other things, like creating pocket holes!
Plus because we were using screws it was very easy to adjust a board when we made a mistake and I feel like the joints were stronger! So decide what is best for you.
Before I go on I want to talk about the way a wall is typically framed.
From this picture, we can forget the double plate because it does not apply in the basement. But we need everything else.
Things to NOTE:
- doors and windows need extra bracing
- studs should be 16″ on center
So let’s start with the bottom plate.
In a basement the bottom place will be a 2×4 Pressure Treated board, this is because of the moisture in a basement. Cut the pressure treated board to fit the wall or use multiple boards but place one at a time. Put the board on the floor, pushed up against the foam insulation. Mark this board for where the studs will be placed, you don’t want an anchor where a board should be (remember 16″ on center!).
Next is drilling the holes for the anchors and attaching the board to the concrete. Using the rotary hammer drill with a masonry drill bit attached (see the anchor instructions for the size) drill your hole through the wood and concrete.
TIP: Make sure the board doesn’t move from where it needs to be. We found we had to adjust after drilling through the wood because it moved around.
SIDE NOTE: We have used other concrete fasteners in the past but our favorite is the Red Head Sleeves.
After drilling the holes, clean the area and hole with a Shop-vac. You want to make sure there is no concrete dust inside the hole or the anchor will not work correctly.
Then take your anchor and hammer it into the hole.
Once the washer is flush with the board, tighten the nut. Add more anchors the same way.
Now that the bottom plate is installed it’s time for the top plate. We attached this either to a joist or a brace we added between the joist using a screw.
SIDE NOTE: For drywall, you need to add bracing to some parts of the ceiling between the joist, these should be 2 feet on center apart. We had to add bracing to some of the outside walls and where the closet was added.
Then we measured the distance between the two plates (top & bottom 2×4 boards) for each stud, remember you marked where the studs should be! After cutting the 2×4 we tested the fit, then Kreg Jig both ends and attached with screws.
TIP: Make sure the screws you are using in the bottom plate can be used with pressure treated boards.
We finished all our walls this way.
SIDE NOTE: On the inside walls, we use clamps to help hold the boards in place.
TIP: Make sure each corner of the room has a board to attach drywall to, you may need to add a board on some corners.
FOR AROUND THE DUCT WORK (returns & truck line):
We watched videos on how to do this and we decided to build a ladder out of 2×4’s. Looked like this when built. Then we braced under with 1″x4″ boards to save on space, these are every 2-feet on center.
STEP 3: WIRING
Next was adding all the wiring. Because I am not an electrician I am not going to share this step but I do share a tip on how to easily install outlet boxes, here.
But things to NOTE:
- make sure you are using the correct wire for the breaker: 12-2 (20 amp) or 14-2 (15 amp). I talk about installing a breaker in this post.
- make sure you are following local building codes (the spacing between outlets!).
- it’s a good idea to have outlet and lights on different breakers. I have all the bedroom lights on one breaker and all the bedroom outlets on another.
- DON’T forget about smoke detectors and use a 14-3 or 12-3 wire so they work together. I used the 14-3 because I took the power from my bedroom lights and they are on a 15 amp breaker but also the 14 is a lot cheaper.
- Also, use the 14-3 or 12-3 wire when having a 3-way switch to connect the switches together. This is when you have two light switches for a light or lights.
STEP 4: MORE INSULATION
Once everything was wired and I made sure I did not need to add anything else to the space, it was time for more insulation between the 2×4’s.
We decided on using the Rockwool because it also is a sound barrier. So we followed their install videos, which was easy, and installed on the walls and ceiling.
And now we were ready for drywall. Hope this helps you have a better idea of the process of insulating and framing a basement. ALSO for our two bedrooms, hallway, & bathroom the cost of framing and insulations was about $1,500 (we had it delivered by Home Depot for a small fee which is included).
One bedroom after
Another part of the bedroom, notice how some boards are turned to get corners in the closets of other rooms.
And it looks like I forgot to take any pictures of the bathroom framing or I just cannot find where I am storing them on my computer.