Are you looking for more organization in your kitchen? I was plus I was tired of trying to find a baking sheet under that pile of pans. After remodeling the kitchen cabinets, I wanted to organize the inside of the cabinets. And this is our solution for the baking pans a DIY pullout baking sheet drawer.
What do you think? Do you want to make your own pullout baking sheet drawer, here’s how!Some links in this post are affiliate link for your convenience, click here to read our full affiliate policy.
- 1/2″ cabinet grade plywood (2’x4′) (can use 3/4″ but buy 1.25″ screws)
- 1″ screws
- 1/4″ MDF or plywood (2’x4′)
- 2 – 21″ drawer slide
- Kreg Jig (we have this one)
- wood clamps (optional)
- table saw (or router to create the dado)
- Skil saw
I recommend using cabinet grade plywood because it is a better product. Let me show you want I mean: top is regular plywood and bottom is cabinet grade. Do you see the difference?
See how the cabinet grade plywood does not have any voids, making it a stronger piece of wood.
1- 13 1/4″x6″ (front)
2- 22 1/2″x10″ (sides)
1- 22″x12 1/4″ (bottom)
1- 12 1/4″x10″ (back)
2- 22 1/4″x9 1/2″ (1/4″ MDF dividers)
After cutting all the pieces, I created two 1/4″ dado’s on the front, bottom, and back pieces. I used a table saw to create the dado, like we did with our kitchen cabinet drawers. I created a dado 4″ in on both sides of the bottom & back pieces (will look like this= 4″ then 1/4″ dado then 3.75″ then 1/4″ dado then 4″). The front piece is 1″ bigger than the back & bottom pieces, so create the dado 4.5″ in on both sides of the front piece (will look like this= 4.5″ then 1/4″ dado then 3.75″ then 1/4″ dado then 4.5″). Making sure all the boards will line up perfectly.
Next, I created the angle of the side pieces (that way it is not a rectangle box). To do this, I marked the front of the of each side piece to be level with the front drawer piece, like the picture below.
After marking, I decided where I wanted to the wood to start to angle and tracked a line to connect the two marks together. Next, I took a Skil saw (with a quality blade) and cut along the line for the two side pieces and MDF pieces.
Next, I created Kreg Jig pockets in the wood. For the two side pieces, I placed 2 pockets at the front of the drawer to connect the drawer front to the side pieces, one of the pictures above shows this. For the back of the drawer, I placed 6 pockets, like picture below.
And for the bottom of the drawer, I placed 14 pockets, just like the picture below.
After creating pockets, it was time to sand the wood smooth using our orbital sander with #220 grit sandpaper. Once I finished sanded all the wood it was time to assemble the drawer.
Taking the drawer front I placed it flat on a hard surface then assemble the sides and bottom pieces around it. I then attached the sides to the drawer to the front piece, the bottom piece is there to make sure the spacing is correct. I also made sure to put pressure on the drawer sides while attaching to make sure there was no gap (this is when a clamp would be nice). Then I attached the bottom of the drawer to the drawer front the same way. Next, I rotated the wood to one of the side pieces, keeping it flat on the hard surface, and attached the side piece. After I rotated the wood to the other side piece (flat on the hard surface) but before attaching I placed the back piece in place to make sure it would fit, then I attached the other side piece. Next was attaching the back piece the same way. TIP: It would be easier to assemble the drawer if you have long clamps but it can be done without them, I did it without! Once I had attached all the pieces, my drawer box looked like this.
Next, I added the drawer slides to the box. I found these drawer slides at the Restore thrift store for only $2. I decided to add the slides to the bottom of the box, that way you could not see the slides. But note to anyone doing this, I do feel that the drawer slides would work better if added to the side of the box because when the drawer is pulled out it slats down slightly.
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