This is part 2 of reshingling our house. In this tutorial, I am sharing how to add shingles plus vents to a roof. There are a lot of tips and tricks I shared in part 1 about removing the old shingles but also building a chimney cricket. Be sure to check out that tutorial first before this tutorial, you can find it here.
In part one I did share the supplies I used but I want to make things easy so here is that list one more time.
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This part of the tutorial continues after adding the waterproofing underlayment, so let’s continue!
ADDING SHINGLES AND VENTS TO THE ROOF
Shingles and vents are added at the same time but let’s start at the end of the roof where the ice and water shield is. To start adding the first row of shingles, you need a starter shingle. This is where the tar on the backside of the shingle is at the edge.
SIDE NOTE: The type of shingles we used had a double tar strip so we could use a regular shingle instead. We did this by rotating the shingles so it was upside down (tar strip is still against the roof) and nailing it into place.
Nail this shingle into place using the 1-1/4″ coil nail. You will want nails close to the edge to prevent the shingle from flapping up. Place the next shingle right against the previous one and nail into place too. Continue this process until you are at the end piece. To cut an end piece place the shingle so it hangs over the edge of the roof line. Take a razor and cut two small slats in the top and bottom of the shingle where it is at the edge of the roofline (where the drip edge ends).
Next, take the square and cut a line on the back of the shingle (easier to cut on the back of the shingle) from one slat to the other.
TIP: Use a piece of wood or a scrap piece of shingle to cut the shingle. You do not want to cut directly on the shingles you have already installed or the waterproofing underlayment because you will cut a hole.
Take the cut piece and check your fit, adjust if needed and nail into place.
Now I need to stop here and explain how to install shingles into more detail.
HOW TO INSTALL SHINGLES
First, you want shingles to be staggered, NO seams will be at the same place. Have you ever noticed this look when a roof is being shingled?
To achieve this, you need to have a starter bundle of shingles (do not confuse this with the starter shingle), this is made from regular shingles. You will be cutting shingles to give you this bundle, the bundle is 6 different shingle sizes:
- regular size
- 5/6 of the regular size
- 2/3 of regular size
- 1/2 of regular size
- 1/3 of regular size
- 1/6 of regular size
But here’s the cool thing, you only need to cut 5 shingles to make 2 bundles (or 3 to make one but you will have 1/2 of a shingle extra). Cut the starter bundler by making these cuts:
- 1/6 of regular size (which also gives you 5/6)
- 2/3 of regular size (which gives you 1/3)
- 1/2 of regular size (gives you an extra 1/2 for the next bundle)
Let me share what our cuts look like. Our full shingle is 39″, so the cuts would be 6.5″, 13″, and 19.5″. Use a square to make each cut. Here’s the bundle all ready minus the full shingle (sizes 32.5″, 26″, 19.5″, 13″, 6.5″).
This bundle will be used every time you start a new shingle row and you always start with the full shingle first. So let’s start installing the shingles.
Your first row of regular shingles will be over the starter shingles (the shingles you already installed). You do this to cover the nails you placed at the edge. You can start this row with a full shingle or the 5/6 cut (32.5″) from the starter bundle.
TIP: The shingle you are using have instructions on the package. Read these to see the best way to install the shingles you are using. It will tell you the amount of nails to use!
The shingles we used had a double blue line. The roofing nail was to be placed between these two lines. We placed about 5 nails per full shingle (wind is a factor on the amount of nails) and we had a nail at each end of shingle, about 1/2-3/4″ from the edge.
After installing the first shingle of the starter bundler then install the 2nd and continue until the whole bundle is installed. Looks something like this.
TIP: Make sure the edge of the shingle is at the edge of the roofline!
Now go back to the first shingle of the starter bundle and finish that row with shingles and complete all the other rows. Or work on each row by place a full shingle on the bottom row and working up then over until all rows are finished.
SIDE NOTE: When you get to the end of the roof cut the shingles just like I explained before.
Then install another starter bundle, finish those rows and continue this until the roof is complete.
If you have any valleys in your roof, work the rows of the shingles together. But let’s talk about one more thing the vents and chimney.
HOW TO INSTALL ROOF VENTS
I hope that you are starting to understand that with roofing layering over the top of the bottom shingle is KEY to have water run off the roof. Its the same with roof vents. These vents could be pipe vents (placed over the vent of the drain pipe) or air vents but let’s talk about how they are installed.
TIP: If you are using plastic vent use a hammer to nail them into place because the roofing gun can crack the plastic.
On our roof, we had no air vents so we had to cut holes in the roof. First, we traced a circle the size of the vent then we used a Sawzall to cut the hole. This is what we were left with.
After install your shingle rows until the actual exposed part of the shingle (below the nail line) is overlapping where the vent will sit. Here is an example of adding another row because the row will not overlap.
And here is the same vent installed with the overlap I am talking about.
Once you have the overlap, cut the shingles that are covering the hole in the roof, you want the air to flow! Then install the vent.
SIDE NOTE: If you are installing a pipe vent you will have to cut the shingle before placing because its a smaller hole.
Wrap the next row of shingles around the vent, they will need to be cut. Here is an example of an air vent.
And here is a pipe vent, see how this is cut to fit around the vent.
TIP: I would recommend using clear caulk to caulk around the pipe vent right where the pipe comes out of the vent.
OK now with the chimney flashing.
INSTALLING CHIMNEY FLASHING
First, install the shingles row until it will overlap around the chimney just like the vents. Then install the front of the chimney flashing (down the slope remember to start at the bottom), again overlapping. ALSO the nails into the chimney (installed in the grout line) was nailed into place with a hammer, no nail gun, this could crack the grout.
As you move up the chimney, the flashing will overlap the shingle.
Also notice how the first flashing up the slope, wraps around the chimney front. So, in other words, the flashing is added with each new row of shingles around a chimney. Continue the process until the chimney is all been covered with flashing.
You can also take an extra precaution by adding tar around the flashing. My husband got a little excited with the tar around our chimney but now we will not have to worry about water coming in and I don’t mind that at all!
Also here is an example of shingling over a small chimney cricket (remember you want one of these!).
INSTALLING THE SHINGLE RIDGE
Now you should be to the point of only the roof ridge not being finished. So let’s talk about that.
First, the row of shingles needs to overlap at the ridge. The easiest way to do this is to take one side of the roof and take the row until it overlaps onto the other side. Plus you want that row to only show the exposed part of the shingle once the ridge shingle is in place. See how the top row is hanging over the other side of the roof in this image.
TIP: You will want to nail the overlap to the other side of the roof, you only need a couple of nails to hold it in place.
Then finish the shingles on the other side of the roof but when you get to the last row overlap. Make sure that once the ridge shingle is installed you only see the exposed part of the shingles (both sides).
TIP: Use a shingle ridge piece to check this.
If you are lucky you will not have to cut the overlap. Then nail those shingles into place the same way as before.
Now install the ridge shingle. Something to think about is where the most wind blows from. If you know what side that is start on that side of the ridge first.
TIP: Again read the instructions on your shingle package to make sure you install the ridge correctly for your shingle.
Install the first ridge shingle just like the starter shingle, nailing all sides of the shingle. Then place another shingle over the first one and only nail as indicated from your shingle instructions.
Then move the next ridge shingle, nail into place also and continuing down the ridge. There are different was to finish the ridge but we choose to use nails and cover those with tar. So decide on the best option for your home.
And that brings us to a reshingles roof!
Just so you know, we did decide to build a new porch gable so that is why our house looks so different. You can find that tutorial here.
I really hope that this tutorial helps you understand how to reshingle a roof but please remember to do your research and think safety!
SIDE NOTE: Speaking of safety, we did use a couple of scaffolding to roof our house. One was one that goes between ladders and another was a roof bracket.
*Please note: we are not experts, just homeowners learning about remodeling and sharing our projects with you. The projects, suggestions, and tutorials on TwoFeetFirst are not error proof, they are simply what worked for us or did not work. Additional research and precautions are always recommended and TwoFeetFirst cannot be held responsible for your personal safety or the outcome of your project.*