We have been in need of a TV console or TV stand for a very long time. There is nothing physically wrong with our current stand, it’s just that our little guy can now reach the TV and we also want some DVD storage in the stand. So out came a sketch paper and some Pinterest looking. Here is a great tutorial on a DIY TV Console that we modeled ours after. This is our final product.
As luck would have it, my dad was removing some old wooden windows from a home and asked us if we wanted them for anything. We had a lot to pick from but two of the window frames fit the TV stand door space after a little cutting.
Before I give you the supplies needed, I wanted to let you know that we modified our TV stand a bit from the tutorial above. And some of the wood needs to be cut down to size.
DIY TV CONSOLE
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Cut List: These are the exact measurements of the wood
1- 2″x12″x48″ (Top)
4- 1 1/2″x4″x34″ (legs: from 2″x4″)
2- 3/4″x4 1/2″x30″ (sides: from 1″x6″ cut to 4 1/2″)
4- 1/2″x1 1/2″x4 1/2″ (trim for sides: from 1/2″x2″x3ft)
2- 3/4″x 1 1/2″x43 1/4″ (top trim piece to attach to top: from 1″x2″)
2- 3/4″x11 1/4″x43 1/4″ (shelves: from 1″x12″)
1- 3/4″x11 1/4″x24″ (inside center: from 1″x12″)
4- 1/2″x9 1/2″x21 1/4″ (inside shelves: from 1/2″ plywood)
1- 32″x46″ (back: from 1/4″ plywood)
Here is all our wood cut and ready to be assembled.
After cutting the wood, we then used our Kreg Jig to create pockets. If you do not have one I would suggest buying one, our favorite is the Kreg Jig K5. This is one of the more expensive ones, but we have used a cheaper one, Kreg Jig Mini, and it works also.
Here is a diagram on where we place our pockets (=*). If there are *** together that means for the width of board place one pocket on each end and one pocket in the center of the board.
The diagrams also show where each piece of wood will be placed.
After creating the pockets it was time to sand the wood to give it a smooth finish, we finished by using #220 grit sandpaper. Now we were ready to assemble the TV Console.
First the side of the console needed to be attached. Taking two of the 2″x4″, we sandwiched the 4.5″x30″ between the two boards and attach them together, did this step for both sides.
Next we took two of the little 1/2″ x 1.5″ x 4.5″ trim pieces and glued them to the top and bottom of the sides, clamping them into place to dry. We also used the 1″ finishing nails and hammered them into the back of the side piece to help hold the trim pieces. Complete this step for the other side also.
Next we attached the two long trim pieces to both of the sides. Then we attached the frame to the top piece of the TV stand, see pictures below.
After that, we attached the inside pieces of the TV stand. We placed the bottom shelf 4″ up from the ground, then attached the inside center and ended with the top shelf. TIP: Make sure you measure the front and back of the stand to give you the distance.
Next, we attached the back piece using the 1″ finishing nails.
Then we attached the shelves to the stand, we made sure we spaced them with enough distance to fit DVD/Blu-ray cases.
And here is the stand with the doors and us trying to decide how we wanted to finish the stand.
And because we are talking about the door/windows, this is how we finished them. First we removed the glass because it was broken.
Next we cut them to the size that we needed, making sure we left off 1/8″ to 1/4″ around the sides so the door would fit into the hole of our stand.
Then we sanded, sanded, and sanded.
Next, we applied our finish to the top of the stand. We decided to use 100% Tung Oil to give our wood a Natural look.
You can find more info and how to apply Tung Oil, here.
Next we needed to drill holes for the cords of our DVD player. We used a 1 1/2″ bit that looked like this.
And then I drilled a hole from the inside out, that way if there was any splintering of wood it would be on the back.
Next, I filled in all the holes and sanded them until smooth. Then cleaned all the dust and wood shavings from the stand.
Now we could paint the base of the stand. To give a straight line where the base meets the top piece, I used this handy taping knife (used to apply mud to drywall). Don’t waste your time taping. You can also do this with baseboards and walls.
You will put the knife right where the two planks of wood come together.
Then paint below the knife making sure it does not move and painting right to left or left to right. TIP: Do not paint up and down because the paint can get pushed into the crack.
Then remove the taping knife and you have a straight line!
Here is the stand after the first coat of primer. And at this time I decided to caulk all the seams and joints.
Because look at the gaps, not very pretty. So out came the caulk, you can see how to caulk here. There is a really great tip in that post.
Next was adding the hardware, we decided to use hinges that would mount to the front of the stand and square pull knobs. We also attached magnetic plates to hold the doors in place.
After installing the hardware the stand was like this for months because we were trying to decide on using glass inserts or metal for the doors. And we finally made a decision.
Here is our living room currently. You can see how we made our stump tables, here.
Anyone wanting to update their TV console?