So we decided to start cooking with cast iron pans because our other pans were looking ready sad and cast iron last 100’s of years. But because we have very little storage space for pans, we decided we wanted a pan rack above the stove. The other problem was that this thing needed to be sturdy (cast iron pans are heavy) and we wanted a shelf to store other pans/dutch ovens. After some planning we created our very own pan rack with a shelf and here is how it looks.
What do you think? Do you want to make your own? How about I share with you how I created ours? Some links in this post are affiliate link for your convenience, click here to read our full affiliate policy.
First I gathered my supplies, I have found that the pipe and pipe fittings are cheaper from Essential Hardware and their shipping is FAST! Once my pipes arrived, I washed them with dish soap because they are dirty… Making sure to dry them right after so they do not rust. If they do rust, take a wire brush to them or rub them with Ketchup, it does work!
After the pipes were washed and dried, I started attaching them together. SIDE NOTE: Even after washing your hands will still get dirty, you can use work gloves to help with that. I first attached two 90 elbows to one of the 2.5″ pipe nipple. I tightened the elbow as tight as I could with my hand then I attached a 12″ pipe nipple to each 90. I again tightened the pipe with only my hands. Now used the 12″ pipe I just added, I used them to tighten the elbows even more, stopping once the 12″ pipes were facing the same way. After I attached a floor flange to each 12″ pipe. Again tighten with my hand, then using the wrench to tighten the pipe to the 90 elbow. And also tighten the floor flange to the pipe. Another TIP: You will want to make sure all the pipes are equal in length and that the space between the 90 elbow and floor flange will fit your board.
TIP: You need to think of the placement of the screw holes, they need to be placed on a stud. So you will want two of the holes aligned horizontal on both floor flanges. This was something I had to fix! Will look like this after installed.
Now I was ready to install the rack onto the wall. But first I needed to find were the studs where on the wall. I used my stud finder (following their directions) and marked the edges of each stud. I then marked where we wanted the shelf placed, 19″ down from the ceiling, on two studs (this mark was where I placed the bottom top floor flange). TIP: You may want to take your level and make sure your markings are level because sometimes ceilings are not…
For the next couple of steps you will want help from another person to help hold things (this was Eric’s job), sorry no pictures because we had no extra hands.
After I took one pipe frame and placed the top of the bottom floor flange onto the marked spot (making sure the screw holes were placed inside the stud). Then I marked the screw holes that would be placed on the stud for the bottom floor flange. I then took the other pipe frame and marked it the same way.
Next I took my drill, using a drill bit that is smaller than the screw, and drilled a hole into each of the marked spots (there will be four). Then I placed the frame back at the holes and drilled the 3″ wood screws into the wall. I did this for both frames.
For the top floor flanges, I took my level and moved the frame until it was level (it should be in the middle of the stud!). Then I marked the screw holes the same way as before. Took my drill and drilled into the markings. Then attached the 3″ wood screws to the wall through the floor flange. I did this for the other frame and after I had this sturdy frame.
We decided we wanted the wood shelf to be about the size as our stove but we left the same amount of wood on both ends of the frame. Another thing I discovered was that the corner of our wall (where the shelf will sit) was not at 90 degree angle. So to give me the correct angle, I placed the board onto the frame and put it as close as possible to the wall. Then I took a ruler and placed the flat edge along the back wall. I then marked the board along the ruler. I then cut along the line to give me the angle I needed.
Once I finished cutting the wood, I then sanded the board with #220 grit sandpaper. Wiped it clean with a damp cloth rag and applied my stain (I used Provincial by Minwax). I apply my stain when the board is slightly damp because I feel like it helps the stain stain the wood evenly.
After the stain dried, I applied one coat of polycrylic to help protect the wood. Once that dried I placed my board on the frame.
To make sure the wood would not move around I used 2 pipe conduit straps on each frame. I installed them by attaching the straps to the pipe then measuring 1.75″ away from the end of the 90 elbow fitting, marking the straps screw holes with a pencil/pen. Then drilled a hole, using a drill bit that is smaller than the screw, I made sure not to drill all the way through the wood. I did this one more time on the other frame and then again for the back of the board but this time measuring the distance from the floor flange.
After I took the 1.25″ wood screws and attached the clamps to the board using the predrilled holes. Now the frame itself is complete!
I wanted hooks to hang my pans from the shelf. I placed my hooks in the center of the board and about 5.5″ away from the other (this will really depend on your pans, so hold them up to the shelf and see where you like them).
To attach the hooks, I predrilled some holes but making sure to not drill through the wood. Then I screwed the hook into the board.
I then hung my pans and placed some on the shelf. This adventure of building a pan rack storage is now complete!
What do you think? Are you wondering how much it cost me? Well let me give you a breakdown on the cost.
TOTAL COST – $47.60
So this project cost me less than $50 to have my own custom pan rack storage. Plus I have extra wood… I felt like this project was on the simpler side. Are you in need of a pan rack? You should DIY it!
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